Today we went to Okazaki, where Matt lived about four years ago for a summer. We visited Okazaki Castle, a wonderful little castle with a lot of history. Placed strategically in the center of Japan, Okazaki, Nagoya and Gifu Castles all featured prominently in the battles for unification that took place in the early 1600's. However, Okazaki castle had been an important stronghold since its first construction around 1455. It is in a wonderfully defensible location, situated on a river bank where many rivulets run in different directions. The castle changed hands several times and may have been moved in 1531 to its present site. In 1590 it was made more defensible with a series of precincts surrounded by moats (now gardens). The castle is most famous as the birthplace of Tokugawa Ieyasu, who later went on to unify Japan. 
From the train station, we took a scenic walk into the castle grounds. Although Matt had visited the castle before, he had not crossed this red bridge. We took some time to admire the rivers and mountains before progressing to Tatsuki Shrine, pictured below.
The statue below is placed at the entrance to Okazaki Castle. Etched into the stone tablet is a part of Ieyasu's teachings and life philosophy. Here is the English translation:
The Deified Teachings of Ieyasu on the Conduct of LifeMan's life is like going on foot a long way bearing a heavy burden, with no need to hurry. Remember that absolute satisfaction is denied to mortals, and you will be contented. If you are ruled by avarice, call to mind the needy circumstances you were once placed in. Forbearance is the root of peace and prosperity, and if you forget sufferings and defeat, you will be ruined. Be severe in criticizing yourself and be lenient with others. To fall short is better than to go too far. A man should know himself! Even the weight of a dewdrop bows down a blade of grass.
-January 1603
After visiting the inside of the castle, which is set up as a museum like Nagoya Castle, we continued our garden walk. Before we went very far, another cat ran out! Just to prove we always run into cats, we've included a picture here.
The gardens themselves are beautiful. Somehow many flowers are still in bloom, and many trees still have autumn colors. Above is a garden beside a tea house, with some statues in the lawn.
To the left is a statue of Ieyasu himself. As explained in the Nagoya Castle post, he unified Japan and his family ruled the land until the Meiji Restoration when feudal clans were abolished. At this time (about 1873), Okazaki Castle was demolished except for the moat structure and stone wall. In 1959 the castle was rebuilt according to records of the original. Ieyasu himself is deified, even though his rule led to almost complete isolation of the country for about a century. The unification did allow for peace and stability, as he outlawed fighting over land and Christianity (which he viewed as the main possibility of his downfall). As the Emperor, from whom he took power, was considered divine, it may have been necessary for the success of his rule to also be deified. Regardless, his is an interesting story of a boy raised in secret, protected against assassins, eating Hatcho miso (a perhaps divinely inspired type of miso that we will contend is the best in Japan), rising to become the leader of the entire country.
Also near the gardens is an impressive Noh Theater. The park produces many Noh plays for the visiting public. We were lucky to see the theater, still a bit set up for a show.
The funniest thing we saw is the phone booth to the right. The top is a model of the top two floors or so of the castle. Where is the Japanese Clark Kent when you need him?
Finally, on the hour, we were treated to a Noh performance from a beautiful clock in the plaza. It opens to reveal a dancing man in front of a backdrop painted with a tree, just like the theater in the park. Watch the embedded video below to see and hear a little traditional Japanese art!
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